E 63rd Street


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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: WayOutWardell (---.dsl.chcgil.sbcglobal.net)
Date: May 30, 2010 03:43PM

captain54 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I think was is most shocking is the complete
> leveling of entire blocks, seeing huge blocks of
> vacant land where once stood vibrant theatres,
> shops, restaurants, etc.. You'd be hard pressed to
> find any neighborhood in the city with that type
> of complete devastation.
>
> Woodlawn may have survived if it wasn't for the
> fact that Chicago was deeply segregated city for
> the majority of the 20th Century. Blacks arriving
> from the South had no where to go but into
> illegally subdivided cramped apartments, further
> aggravating the cramping problem which caused the
> Dutch, Irish and Germans to flee in the 30's.

Yeah, the restrictive covenants combined with the housing shortage really hastened the downfall, and the demise of decent shopping on 63rd was inevitable. I came across this photo of Saul Alinsky during his T.W.O. days:



There are four liquor store signs and a Miller truck in the background of just this one picture!

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: Richard Stachowski (---.dsl.chcgil.sbcglobal.net)
Date: May 30, 2010 04:18PM

[b]63rd and Cottage Grove were known as a red light district in the 50's.[/b]

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: captain54 (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: June 04, 2010 01:54PM

63rd and Cottage Grove, 1922, from the "L" platform, view south.....the Strand Hotel, Tivoli Theatre, and Cinderella Ballroom all on the left..."Kavanaugh's" would have been in the lower right hand corner, out of frame

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20205384@N03/4667863998/" title="From 63rd and Cottage Grove &quot;L&quot; platform, view South, 1922 by captain54_01, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1279/4667863998_8a99712645.jpg" width="500" height="398" alt="From 63rd and Cottage Grove &quot;L&quot; platform, view South, 1922" /></a>

63rd and Cottage, view north...in front of the Tivoli...I read somewhere online that the chandeliers from the elegant lobby of the Tivoli are installed somewhere in the Chicago area

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20205384@N03/4667236407/" title="63rd and Cottage Grove, view North, 1924 by captain54_01, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1281/4667236407_60527d0749.jpg" width="338" height="433" alt="63rd and Cottage Grove, view North, 1924" /></a>



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/04/2010 01:55PM by captain54.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: WayOutWardell (---.dsl.chcgil.sbcglobal.net)
Date: June 04, 2010 10:53PM

Some more photos of Woodlawn nightclubs:

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/29821940@N00/4667916843/]Crown Propeller Lounge, 868 E. 63rd[/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/29821940@N00/4669217557/]Crown Propeller Lounge Sign[/url]

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/29821940@N00/4668541360/]Pershing Hotel, ca. 1963[/url]

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/29821940@N00/4666504146/]McKie's Disk Jockey Lounge, Strand Hotel[/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/29821940@N00/4666438408/]McKie's Disk Jockey Lounge, current view[/url]

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: 222psm (---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: June 06, 2010 02:27PM

Very cool before and after pics of Mckie's Disk jockey lounge, and I love all your old pics on your flickr. Thanks for sharing them WayOutWardell.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: captain54 (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: June 06, 2010 10:05PM

"Sixty-Third Street was bisected by Cottage Grove Avenue, and for a couple of decades it was the dividing line between the black and white sections of Woodlawn. The black nightclubs first arose on the west side of Cottage Grove, south and north of 63rd, and then a string went from Cottage Grove along 63rd west to South Parkway (now King Drive). When the color line of Woodlawn broke in 1951, black nightclubs then blossomed on the east side of Cottage Grove and east on 63rd to Stony Island Ave.

One of the most famous clubs on 63rd Street was the Kitty Kat, established in 1953, On the west side of Cottage Grove could be found another legendary jazz club, Basin Street, with such stellar acts as Johnny Griffin and Eddie Vinson, and about a block south at 64th Street was the Pershing Hotel complex of venues - the ballroom, the first-floor lounge and the basement club called Budland, which at first was a jazz club featuring such acts as Arnett Cobb, Miles Davis, and Billie Holiday, but later was booking rhythm and blues acts."

the "Budland" was named "Birdland" until the guy that owned the "Birdland" in NYC threatened to sue

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20205384@N03/4676336503/" title="Budland ad Chicago Defender 1956 by captain54_01, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4676336503_09a3e9e454.jpg" width="413" height="468" alt="Budland ad Chicago Defender 1956" /></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20205384@N03/4676341963/" title="Album cover from Sonny Stitt live at DJ's 1961 by captain54_01, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1272/4676341963_968f0ac99c_m.jpg" width="200" height="199" alt="Album cover from Sonny Stitt live at DJ's 1961" /></a>

available for download

http://www.vervemusicgroup.com/artist/music/detail.aspx?pid=11601&aid=2810#



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/07/2010 03:21PM by captain54.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: captain54 (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: June 07, 2010 03:19PM

WayOutWardell Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> By the way, does anyone remember or even know the
> name of this dance hall on 63rd & Drexel? I've
> seen passing mention of a hall where local
> musicians would rehearse before going into the
> studio (and it was obviously popular enough to
> hold dances hosted by DJ Lucky Cordell), but not
> much else.
>
> Unknown Dance Hall - 63rd & Drexel
>
> Dance Hall Entrance

"Preserved among the Alton Abraham papers is a draft handbill for a coronation ball for Miss Bronze 1958 (Pathways to Unknown Worlds, p. 116). This took place on August 9 at the Casino Moderne, 913 East 63rd Street, where the band "Le Sun Ra and His Arkestra" had often played for dancing, "Featuring the Great Sun Ra Plus a Host of Stars." This had to be one of the few occasions where an Arkestral performance was promoted with promises of "Girls Girls Girls Girls Girls Girls Girls."

The Casino Moderne was one of a number of "boutique neighborhood dancehalls" that opened in the late 1920's in various Chicago neighborhoods.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: WayOutWardell (---.dsl.chcgil.sbcglobal.net)
Date: June 08, 2010 03:32AM

I wonder if the Casino Moderne was preceded by a place called the Cocoanut Grove Cafe, which was at the same address in 1928.

Speaking of Sun Ra and Woodlawn, there is a film from 1959 called 'The Cry Of Jazz' that features him and his band playing at Budland, and also has some great nighttime footage of 63rd. One of the liquor stores visible in the Alinsky photo briefly flashes on screen. Howard Alk was the film editor, who was a founder of Second City along with the folks who made 'Goldstein' - full circle!

There are some bright spots in the neighborhood, however. The Cinderella Cafe has been beautifully restored and reopened; the photos make it look far smaller than it really is. It's enormous.
[url=http://www.thegrandballroom.net]The Grand Ballroom[/url]

Also, there are/were plans to renovate the Strand Hotel.
[url=http://www.thestrandartistslofts.com/]Hotel Strand Lofts[/url]

And some of the residential blocks survived quite well, too.
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/29821940@N00/4680758813/]Minerva Street, August 1952[/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/29821940@N00/4681389314/]Minerva Street, June 2010[/url]

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: querencia (---.dsl.chcgil.sbcglobal.net)
Date: August 29, 2010 03:37AM

I stand corrected about the EL/subway being called whatever. But I remember getting on the train at 63rd & University and going downtown, and pushing my little baby (who is now 56) in his carriage on 63rd Street as the EL train roared overhead.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: frworksonpaper (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: September 06, 2010 12:38PM

Quite a difference in 100 years. Taken from the book Charles R. Charles Revisited.



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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: Berwyn Frank (---.lightspeed.cicril.sbcglobal.net)
Date: September 06, 2010 01:20PM

Wow! I love how you got the bus in the newer photo. Goes nice with the street car in the vintage photo.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: 222psm (---.mycingular.net)
Date: September 06, 2010 03:18PM

Wow! Big difference 100 years makes! Very cool that you got the bus in the today pic.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: WayOutWardell (---.dsl.emhril.sbcglobal.net)
Date: June 01, 2011 02:26PM

Here's a token from Kavanaugh's Woodlawn Cafe, 63rd & Cottage Grove, that showed up on eBay:

[url=http://cgi.ebay.com/OLD-5-CENT-BIMETALLIC-TOKEN-WOODLAWN-CAFE-CHICAGO-SCARC-/110692113065?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c5c39aa9]Kavanaugh's Woodlawn Cafe Token[/url]

Here's a postcard of the cafe itself - [url=http://chicagopc.info/Chicago%20postcards/restaurants/woodlawn%20cafe%20ajca.JPG]Woodlawn Cafe[/url]

Amazing how things like this survive...the cafe itself was replaced in the early 20s by the Washington Park National Bank building.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: captain54 (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: June 01, 2011 08:47PM

there are a few photos posted here taken at the time (1910) of an "explosion" at Kavanaugh Woodlawn Cafe.

There is other info about Harry Kavanaugh that I dug up that might reveal what the "explosion" was all about.

1) Harry Kavanaugh owned the "Hammond Beach Inn" a resort just across the Illinois/Indiana border, around the turn of the century.

2)In 1916, outraged members of the servers union had finally had enough of "slave driver" Kavanaugh and had tried to meet with him at both the Hammond Inn and the Woodlawn Cafe.

was the 1910 "explosion" a result of a competitor, jealous of Kavanaugh's success?

was the 1910 "explosion" a result of disgruntled employees?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2011 08:49PM by captain54.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: WayOutWardell (63.226.79.---)
Date: June 01, 2011 09:13PM

captain54 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> there are a few photos posted here taken at the
> time (1910) of an "explosion" at Kavanaugh
> Woodlawn Cafe.
>
> There is other info about Harry Kavanaugh that I
> dug up that might reveal what the "explosion" was
> all about.
>
> 1) Harry Kavanaugh owned the "Hammond Beach Inn" a
> resort just across the Illinois/Indiana border,
> around the turn of the century.
>
> 2)In 1916, outraged members of the servers union
> had finally had enough of "slave driver" Kavanaugh
> and had tried to meet with him at both the Hammond
> Inn and the Woodlawn Cafe.
>
> was the 1910 "explosion" a result of a competitor,
> jealous of Kavanaugh's success?
>
> was the 1910 "explosion" a result of disgruntled
> employees?

Interesting. I did notice something: in the 1910 post-explosion photos, the cafe doesn't appear to be that big, but the postcards (undated) give the impression that this was a large place, even having a couple of theme rooms:

[url=http://chicagopc.info/Chicago%20postcards/restaurants/woodlawn%20cafe%20arbor%20room.jpg]Woodlawn Cafe - Arbor Room[/url]

[url=http://chicagopc.info/Chicago%20postcards/restaurants/woodlawn%20cafe%20dutch%20room.JPG]Woodlawn Cafe - Dutch Room[/url]

Perhaps the explosion was self-induced, as a means to clear the land to build a newer, bigger cafe.

By the way, I fail to see what's so Dutch about the 'Dutch Room', unless everyone seated there had to pay their own way.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: captain54 (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: June 01, 2011 11:36PM

WayOutWardell Wrote:
> By the way, I fail to see what's so Dutch about
> the 'Dutch Room', unless everyone seated there had
> to pay their own way.

Also, how does and Irish gent like "Kavanaugh" open a "Chop Suey Cafe"?

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: captain54 (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: June 01, 2011 11:36PM

WayOutWardell Wrote:
> By the way, I fail to see what's so Dutch about
> the 'Dutch Room', unless everyone seated there had
> to pay their own way.

Also, how does an Irish gent like "Kavanaugh" open a "Chop Suey Cafe"?

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: Chipast (---.dsl.chcgil.ameritech.net)
Date: June 02, 2011 06:06PM

captain54 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> WayOutWardell Wrote:
> > By the way, I fail to see what's so Dutch about
> > the 'Dutch Room', unless everyone seated there
> had
> > to pay their own way.
>
> Also, how does an Irish gent like "Kavanaugh" open
> a "Chop Suey Cafe"?


Chop Suey was more Americanized than authentic Chinese anyway, So therefore......The transition seemed somewhat suitable.

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: captain54 (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: June 02, 2011 06:50PM

Chipast Wrote:
>
> Chop Suey was more Americanized than authentic
> Chinese anyway, So therefore......The transition
> seemed somewhat suitable.

Up the block (south) and across 63rd on Cottage was the Tivoli Theatre/Grand Ballroom complex, which was formerly the "Cinderella Chop Suey Restaurant and Dance Hall"

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Re: E 63rd Street
Posted by: jak378 (---.lightspeed.cicril.sbcglobal.net)
Date: June 03, 2011 09:05PM

Just out of curiousity, does anyone remember a restaurant on East 63rd St called the Esquire? I can remember eating there with parents and grandparents. I recall it was kind of nice place with table cloths and such. It had a chrome railing in the window supported by chrome balls. I naturally called it the restaruant with the balls in the window.

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